Newsletter: Vol. 10. Iss. 2

May 2011

A Holy Land in Conflict
Clayton Childers

You cannot visit the Holy Land today and remain untouched by the profound sense of fear and conflict that permeates the entire region. People are pitted against people, family against family, religion against religion, nation against nation. This is the backdrop that millions of people pass through every year on their way to visit the many holy sites found in that region of the world. Each of these “pilgrims” is faced with a choice, to either ignore or engage. On a recent trip to the Holy Land sponsored by the General Board of Church and Society thirteen clergy and laity chose to engage.

The pilgrimage, which lasted from February 22 – March 5, was called Holy Land Holy People. It was organized in collaboration with Dr. Peter Miano and The Society for Biblical Studies of Boston. Participants, representing a number of conferences from across the United States, were able to travel to Palestine, Israel and Jordan and visit with people in each place. “ This is not your typical Holy Land trip, that is why we made a commitment to make this happen,” said Neal Christie, GBCS Assistant General Secretary for Education and Leadership Formation, “Peter Miano brings a wealth of knowledge of the ancient sites and culture, the formation of early Christianity, and a sensitive awareness of the current context. His approach makes this the type of trip General Board of Church and Society is eager to support.”

The group visited a number of the historic Christian sites. Pausing to read the Sermon on the Mount at a site where Jesus may have taught his disciples years before. Riding a boat on the Sea of Galilee and watching a crew member demonstrate the ancient technique of casting a fishing net. Visiting the Qumran archeological site where the Dead Sea Scrolls were discovered. Kneeling in prayer in the Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem, drinking water from Jacob’s Well, and worshipping in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem. A number of the group had collected prayers from church members and friends which they used to guide their prayers at the Western (Wailing) Wall of the Temple in Jerusalem. There was even time to take a swim and float in the Dead Sea.

But in addition to visiting the historic sites, the pilgrimage also called for staying in the Palestinian city of Bethlehem for several nights, shopping in stores owned by Palestinians and purchasing locally made fair trade products and crafts. Significant program time was spent hearing a wide variety of perspectives from indigenous Christians and other groups about the concerns of Palestinians and Israelis on the current crisis of Palestinian self-determination.

On a day trip the group traveled to southern Israel to meet with families from a “unrecognized” Bedouin village. There are an estimated forty-five of these “unrecognized” villages of Bedouin people living within Israel’s borders that do not appear on Israeli maps. The Pilgrimage group was hosted by Bedouin families from this community and then taken on a tour. They were able to see a number of ways the village was taking initiative to develop itself and establish a higher standard of living for its people. Recently, the community dug a well and ran water to all of the homes in the community. They have also been able to tap into an internet broadcast signal and have installed a wireless connection that measures “3G.” Some months ago the community pooled their resources and built a new concrete block home for a widow from the community but, but because the village is not recognized, the new home was bulldozed by the Israeli government.
Moving from place to place was somewhat difficult because of the dividing wall which has been built around Israel. Even the name of this dividing wall is in dispute, depending on who you ask. Many people in Israel will call it a ‘security fence’ while Palestinians refer to it as the ‘Apartheid Wall.’

The group travelled to the Al Arub Refugee Camp where they heard stories from Palestinian refugee families who had been displaced from their homes decades ago. Some have lived their entire lives at the refugee camp. Even though the life is hard, and opportunities are limited they do not want to move from the camp because they fear, if they are dispersed, the world will forget that they have lost their lands and homes. They continue to maintain that they have a right to return and claim the land that is rightfully theirs. The presence of camp itself serves as a prophetic witness to the injustice that occurred to their families decades before.

In welcoming their American visitors the Palestinian women demonstrated extravagant hospitality and warmth. However, they also expressed passionate feelings of betrayal and anger toward President Obama’s administration who, just days before, had vetoed a United Nations Security Council resolution which would have condemned Israel’s ongoing construction and expansion of Jewish settlements on Palestinian land in the West Bank. The United States was the only Security Council member to vote against the resolution.
Participants later talked with two Jewish Israelis. Both believe Israel has a right to exist as a “Jewish State” but hold very different views on its size and scope. The first of these, Lydia Eisenberg, has lived in a kibbutz (a communal town) which was established in the 1920’s. It has been her home for several decades and now a number of her children and grandchildren are making it their home as well. She showed the group a cemetery and reminisced about a number of her friends who are buried there. She feels a profound attachment to the land as the place where she has found meaning and purpose for living. While affirming Israel’s right to exist she does not believe in the right of Israel to establish settlements in the Palestinian occupied territories and sees the settlements a significant obstacle to peace in the region.

The second perspective came from Hagi Ben Artzi, a Jewish settler who lived the Beit El Settlement. It is a Jewish town built on Palestinian land in the West Bank. Ben Artzi unapologetically maintains that the State of Israel has a right to possess all the ‘promised land’ mentioned in Hebrew Scripture “from the Nile River in Egypt to the Euphrates River in Iraq.”

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Is it a coincidence in Matthew, that in the vicinity of that cave known as the gateway to Hades, Jesus gave the keys to the kingdom to Peter, proclaiming that the gates of hell would not prevail against it?